HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW YOUR “GLUE”?
Posted on December 31, 2015
HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW YOUR “GLUE”?
Cyanoacrylates are not glues at all! Cyanoacrylate is the only type of adhesive that is proved safe, effective or used for the application of eyelash extensions. Cyanoacrylate adhesives are actually ACRYLIC RESINS. Or, as I like to call them Eyelash Adhesives! Hydrogen (as in H2O or water) will cure it, as does alcohol! Eyelash Adhesives cure instantly upon contact with water as it interacts with moisture on the surface of the eyelash and the moisture in the air. When moisture and Cyanoacrylate (eyelash adhesive) are exposed to one another, the cyanoacrylate molecules form a tightening chain that becomes a strong holding bond between the natural lash and the extension.
To accomplish this correctly, we recommend the use of a nebulizer with distilled water in it. The nebulizer reduces the size of the molecules in the water enabling the moisture to fully penetrate the eyelash adhesive to give an even cure. You can purchase a small inexpensive nebulizer on amazon. One with a mouth piece works well.
This strengthening, firming action is called polymerization.
- Adhesives do not dry – they CURE.
- As the adhesive reacts to moisture (moisture on the lashes, moisture in the eye and air) it starts to cure.
- Controlling the amount of surface and ambient moisture, manipulates the speed of "stickiness" (the grab or hold you feel when you create a bond). That's why one day you love your adhesive because its drying fast and sticking well and the next day it won't stick or dry, and you think the adhesive has gone bad overnight! Depending on the weather, the consistency and how fast your adhesive will cure changes!
- Controlling the surface moisture is easier than controlling the humidity levels of your studio. You can place the nebulizer over the eyelashes to dampen the lashes quickly and very easily.
SENSITIVITY & WATERY EYES: You can stop a lot of the fumes and sensitivity by using the nebulizer periodically throughout the application process. This helps to cure the lash extensions as you go. It reduces the fumes that the client is exposed to. You can also keep a damp sponge next to your clients head during the application process.
Cyanoacrylate adhesives for the use of applying eyelashes extensions are mostly liquid. Some of the liquids are thinner than others; some thicker. They are often modified with rubbers or elastomers (natural and/or synthetic) to increase their flexibility and resilience – especially to temperature shock. Each stylist prefers something different. A thicker liquid (higher viscosity) allows more re-positioning time for placement correction, while thinner (instant) formulas have immediate grab or stick. Most of the USA manufactured adhesives are thicker and have a rubber additive, whereas the thinner adhesives are normally manufactured in Korea.
Most IMPORTANT advice I have - apply a very thin (thinner means stronger) layer of adhesive to a CLEAN natural lash. By CLEAN, I mean no traces of makeup, no film or residue from eye makeup removers, no sleep from the night before! If you are applying lashes and you keep getting little particles of "stuff" that are sticking to the extension at the base of your clients lashes as you are trying to apply them....(you all have seen this!) BINGO, you haven't done due diligence in making sure your clients lashes are clean AND you can expect the bond to be bad. REMEMBER, clean is clean. Never say "well I think its good enough". I will write my next blog on "how to stop clients from coming in with major makeup residue and dirty lashes" without it cutting into your time and $$$$$!!
TOP THREE IMPORTANT THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT THE ADHESIVE YOU ARE USING:
#1 How long does it last unopened?
#2 Once opened how long before the adhesive starts losing bonding effectiveness?
#3 Does the adhesive contain rubber or any ingredient in the latex family?
If you can't answer all of those questions, you need to ask your supplier. WE want you to be educated as much as possible on the adhesive you are using. Call us we are happy to talk to you and answer any questions that you may have.
ADHESIVE TAKE AWAYS:
- Use fresh adhesive according to manufacturers advice
- Always apply to clean lashes
- Use a very thin layer for a stronger bond (check that bases are attached)
- Use a nebulizer to cure your clients lashes and reduce sensitivity
- Check for client rubber/latex allergy before using
- Try to control your lash studio's environment with either a humidifier, dehumidifier and or nebulizer